As I’ve already noted templates are not what they used to be in quilting. It’s now extremely rare to find templates in new books and magazines unless the pattern is challenging and absolutely requires it.  So I kick it old school or hunt down books that attempt a historical slant and throw in templates for authenticity. Books, magazines and pamphlets pre early 90s are almost exclusively dedicated to template cutting.

*Please remember craft books are not by nature as accurate in the history of quilting as those marketed under the labels of history/sociology/and art. Always check and double check sources and be ready to apologize if you’re wrong when writing about quilt history*

This is something I’ve noticed more and more as I’ve delved both backward and forward into quilting literature. Although publishers and authors of some crafting books do their due diligence when it comes to accurate information some do not and the cute intros, side notes of information and overall stories can be more of fiction and less of fact.

Say you’ve found a book and found a pattern, pre made by someone else, that you’d like to try your hand at.

I picked this one, Kumiko Sudo’s Kanzashi from East Quilts West, because it has all straight seams.I will not be showing how to piece this yet.

(If you’re surging ahead with an alternative pattern and need help understanding breaking down the pattern into components raise your hands and yell)

Gather your materials.

I am using clear template plastic, a template marking pencil and a sharpie as well as later using a plastic zip close bag.

Sometimes templates are on the corresponding page of your pattern and sometimes not.

In this case the templates are all in the back of the book.

Locate them. Double check you’re marking the right templates. Note which templates you’ll need to create. In some older books templates are cross pattern so a pattern’s instructions might say use templates 3A, 4D, and 6C to create this pattern, or as is the case in this pattern book that all the templates for that pattern are labeled and used only to make this block.

Lay your template plastic over top and begin tracing around it.

(I’ve lifted and moved my plastic so you can see exactly what I’m doing)

Make sure to trace economically on your plastic, moving and repositioning your plastic so that you’re using every square inch of it.

Keep tracing your templates.

Once marked I write over the pencil lines with a sharpie. Tracing both the exterior line, and because seams were included in the pattern, noting that by tracing an interior line as well.

Sometimes in patterns the sewing line is indicated with a broken line, sometimes not.

Make note of whether seams are included and whether you want to include them in your piece. Some hand piecers prefer that their seam allowances not be included in their template.

Note if you use your seam marker to mark seams on templates you’ll get a sharpie discharge. I have two seam markers for this reason.

I personally don’t care whether you include seams or not and there’s no right way to this.

The old country quilter says stop quibbling and just get it done.

I also mark the name of the pattern and the letter of the piece and grain line. These are generally A-Z.

I then cut them out with utility scissors (NOT) those I use for cutting fabric.

I then double check to make sure my pieces are cut accurately.

And I label my baggie with name of the pattern, pieces inside, book it was taken from, pattern creator and page number.

And again noting if I included seams or not.

I also create a copy of the pattern(not the templates) to slip inside the baggie for reference.

If I make more than one pattern from the same book I keep them all together in a file folder labeled with the books titled and author.

This is how I’ve made almost all of my templates since I was 16. They have for the most part held up well.

Some of the lower grade plastic has yellowed but, unless they were stored improperly or mishandled, they are still in usable shape.

I just realized I probably need to post about grainline as an interjection.

I’m doing my best to post these in some semblance of flow but as I’m not face to face with anyone it’s difficult to know what and where everyone needs help and direction. I hope to eventually have the posts in order for the never sewn a darn thing folks, covering chicken, the eggs and the whole life in between.

Remember your creative spirit is a child. The adult part, that worries about bills, cars, work and taxes doesn’t have a thing to do with creativity. Sometimes in these areas your creative child emerges but when your adult takes over your art it suffers, tremendously.

I find most self esteem related craft/art inspired issues over come when I realize it’s not an adult making these but a kid.

She’s fabulous! I can’t deny her what she wants to make, play and dream. I know she’s not like anyone else and I don’t want her to not make something because she thinks someone else will or make something because she wants to be someone else either.

I don’t remember being 6 and under and dreaming of being another soul.

What a horrible art teacher I’d be if I told her, Serena, now sugar, someone else drew trees and they might have drawn them better, maybe you should just not draw

or

Serena draw that tree just like your best friend did.

If we all told ourselves this (and passed this on to one another and future creative kids) we’d never have any art to speak of.

I promise inside you s(he)’s alive and kicking too.

As non competitive, uncaring and driven as a group of kindergartens with glitter, glue and crayon lets let the kids quilt for a change.

If you’ve made your very own template feel free to write a motivational slogan across it, then place it gently on your fabric wrong side up.

In my mind there is truly no Right vs. Wrong side, just two differing shades of the same print. I have flipped fabrics because the muted side appealed more to the effect I was going for within the block. I want you to understand that traditionally there is a difference between these two and that the darker side is known and referred to as the Right side and the muted side the Wrong side.

Take your pen, pencil or marking device and trace around your square. Decide again and note whether you have included your seam allowance within your template or if you have not. If you have you can literally put these squares almost side by side.

Hello Thriftiness!

If you Have NOT included your seam allowances you will NEED TO LEAVE 1/4 inch around all sides!! of your shape.

Note the difference in my spacing.

After you have marked a few squares you can start adding seams.

I moved my seam marker to show you how I had traced to the interior of the line on my pieces. I will do this all the way around the shape.

If I have not included my seams I will mark to the exterior of my traced line.

And I will do that until all my pieces are traced with seam allowances included.

This seems like the simplest thing. (I’m probably forgetting something. I worry about this on every post.) Seriously I go wrong in this step more than any other, because it’s really easy to forget what direction I was going with my seam marker or to get a shape too close to another one.

I really want everyone to just enjoy themselves with all of this. I wish more veteran quilters kicked it back to the basics and goofed off with a simple, fun and enjoyable project.

It’s just some squares made using our hands and some old fashioned skills.

This week I want us all to find something super motivational, inspiring and meaningful to us (you don’t have to share) and keep it near us while we mark our pieces. It’s so easy in today’s world to get really caught up in it all, to get competitive, to feel less than, to look at others, to others for advice, guidance and critique.

For our week of tracing lets just not. Give yourself a big hug! Hold a photo of a little kid YOU and tell her or him how proud you are that they’re making this quilt. They are the ONLY person who can EVER make this quilt and that is really important. Applaud your fabric choices. Secure your vision. Be excited, relaxed and having fun!

Thank you everyone who is stopping by, linking, commenting and participating in whatever way feels right for you!

Go Trace Something

(Again I’ll make a fabric post soon. If you really need fabric to get started shoot me an email. If I can’t get it to you I’ll find someone who will)

But first take a minute to visitSaskia and her quilt top!

Way to go! You’re way ahead of us and me.

Obviously I’ve already covered how Mrs. Houchens used templates and why my mama always traces as opposed to pinning and cutting around freehand in the air. You risk cutting into your template and a jagged, inaccurate edge.

I mentioned various materials that you can use to make a homemade template of your very own. I did this to cut down on cost and commitment. Any completely made by hand project is a massive undertaking and I do not want anyone investing money into something that may become just another box in the top of the closet. I’ve mentioned alternatives for those of us who are low on funds or those of us who are a little hesitant about jumping in willy nilly.

I think making a few blocks in this way to test whether you even enjoy it is a great idea. Some people know instantly this is their method and others think they’d rather use the template plastic as a guillotine. Their is joy in this method, but there is definitely a certain temperament involved. It may not be a great year for you to start a quilt made entirely by hand.

My mama has taken large hunks of time off from quilting, particularly around her divorce and subsequent moves. There’s nothing wrong with saying Quilting I love you, but not right now. They will wait. If stored properly you can pick it all back up a good many years later.

I have everyone started on a nine patch.

It is a simple, straight seam pattern that goes together quickly and can be easily personalized and pieced without the same amount of attention that harder patterns require. If you’d rather use rectangles that’s fine too. If you’d like a list of alternative beginner patterns I’m happy to make one. Keep it straight, keep it simple, I promise there’s plenty to learn.

We don’t crawl, walk and run all in the same day.

If you’d like to buy a plastic square I found one on etsy here. One four inch square. It looks as if this seller handmakes these and offers a good variety of basic shapes. I’m sure there are other people who create these sorts of shapes out of thick plastic. Remember not to buy anything with curves for your beginning pattern. I want you to have a finished quilt and not an in process project.

If you’d like to see patterns that came on template sheets here are some. Note these are actual patterns and not just shapes and that these patterns may be more difficult than you’d like to make. You would have to examine whatever pattern you were looking at to see if it had basic shapes. This is just an example of another type of template. In these the plastic sheets were preprinted and these shapes were designed to be cut out and stored long term to make this particular pattern.

Quilting with templates was just about the only way during the 70′s and 80′s. Before the rotary cutter and quick piecing techniques began to emerge almost all quilting supplies were geared toward a quilter who would sit marking a shape, marking a seam allowance and cutting with scissors. If you’re looking for pattern books with templates start at the used and pre owned tables. I bought three years worth of 80′s Quilt World from an antique store for 15 dollars. Although not all the patterns are accurate they’re laid out well enough to get a general idea of the top. 

*I will eventually cover how to hand draw a block, but for now we’re focused on understanding templates.*

Pattern spread in the historical context would have depended on location, status, and movement of the individual. As Mrs. Houchens was not from a higher socio economic class her patterns were not purchased. She had a limited number that had been handed down from the 20′s-40′s

This is not meant as a thorough history of templates within quilting, if this is an area that you find fascinating please take the time to do your own reading.

In the 1970′s newsletters and magazines began to emerge. Often times these newsletters highlighted more history and less basic patterns, often there was a classified section where in which quilters would send out an ISO and another quilter would respond with a Send a SASE for Colonial Lady pattern from such and such company or handdrawn etc. Books, often rigid in their instructions, began to emerge as well. Some of the older books from the library in Wise dictate exact coloring for everything.

This is a red, white and green pattern. Green leaves with echo quilting, scalloped edges, and red trim, red flowers only, with yellow centers and handdrawn templates were included, designed to be traced over and a stronger template to be made later. These books were often without any photos. Showing only rough personal sketches of blocks and tops. I can understand why those new to quilting would feel fear from what even today reads like an immovable staunch guard of quilters. I can also understand that perhaps they were made to preserve heirlooms and antique patterns as best they could before color photography was so readily available in publishing.

The point is, templates were for the most part designed to be traced around and in some cases enlarged and traced around onto another material. Sometimes shapes overlap so that you would have to rotate your paper, plastic or cardboard in order to get the full shape. Sometimes templates are given and used in a pattern in the reverse as well.

Again broad strokes here. I want you focused and understanding history but at the same time I want your attention to be on starting your first few blocks.

Template plastic is the happy medium between cardboard and purchased plastic templates. These are sold in packs of sheets. Some are gridded some are clear, today in the age of rotary cutting and the quick measurement of patterns gridded sheets are the way to quickly mark shapes such as 2 1/2 x 4 inch rectangle. The grid is normally 1/4 of an inch and with some fast counting your shape can be quickly traced and cut.

Clear plastic is generally used for pre given shapes. No need for the grid and see through these are perfect for tracing over those shapes.

Including seam allowances if you decide too, or even creating what’s known as a window template.

This is a window template and provides a place to trace the cutting and sewing line all in one. I do not like these all that much because there is so much room for mistake and inaccuracy, but again make what works for you. You’ll probably need an exacto knife to cut the interior.

Again I really like the newer template packs. They provide good basic shapes and a book with various patterns that use those shapes. I don’t use them for everything though. I still handdraft and use the template plastic. I also sometimes make a template out of thicker fabric and use that to trace, but am prepared at the end to square up my blocks. I still use thicker cardstock and cardboard too.

Tomorrow I will post on actually using a template or/and on buying fabrics. Again I’m trying hard not to overload anyone but I want everyone understanding what they need, why they need it and what to be on the lookout for.

If you want to quilt along and are having trouble finding anything please email and I will post a box to you as fast as I can. Again this is a very general overview in these first posts as I start to delve into harder patterns I’ll recover areas that need it for those lessons.

Right now we need something durable that can make a square and be traced around repeatedly. We also need something to mark the seam line if we’re uncomfortable with eyeballing.

Again email, comment, hang in there and ask any and all questions. If I don’t know the answers I’ll hunt down someone who does.

I’m not affiliated with any sellers, nor have I bought from them. I just quickly googled to find a few links to illustrate my point. These will probably be removed at a later date as they will surely become inaccurate.

This is a super quick, abbreviated, with no explanation, tips or discussion on what you’ll need to finish your quilt, aside from fabric. I will recover all of this in greater detail with more photos and explanation later. This is just for those of us who are driving out of our way to find materials or who have to order off the internet and may have a longer period to wait for shipping.

Batting, Wadding, Lining, Filler, Padding…..it is all the same thing. You’re going to want a batting slightly larger than your finished top. I prefer 100% cotton. I have in the past been super loyal to Mountain Mist Cream Rose 100% cotton, but it is becoming harder and harder for me to find locally. Deb has recommended 100% cotton Warm and Natural and I’ve read in quite a few places people recommending 100% Quilters Dream Request Loft.

example one

example two

example three

Pay attention that the exterior of your batt states that it works for handquilting.Remember when all else fails to visit the manufacturers website.

You can also use 80/20, which is a cotton/polyester mix, and cotton/poly which is a cotton polyester mix as well but contains less cotton than an 80/20. You can also use 100% polyester, just make sure it’s of pretty high quality.You can also use sheets, but be sure they needle well by hand and that it’s not damaged. Some people prefer the drape of a quilt lined with an old sheet or just large muslin to batting. This will make your quilt less warm, but you will still be making a quilt.

I am mentioning these, not because there aren’t other alternatives, but because I have seen these work, be used, and age. I can stand beside a thirty year old quilt made with these and tell you yes, it’s held up.

Most people will need a thimble. I do not use a thimble, but my mama does and she taught me to use one when I first started.

She loves this brand and has used it for as long as I can recall. I tried about five others before I settled on my own path to extremely tough fingers but if I had to return to a thimble I’d probably go back to the leather one again.

here’s some other thimbles, please remember I’ll be covering all this again later in greater detail. feel free if you’ve the money or want to experiment and try new things to do so.

A hoop, frame or snaps. I use a hoop. It is a large oval. You can use whatever shape and size you desire. You do not even have to use a hoop or frame. If you are having trouble finding these email me. I will talk you through it with links.

More hand quilting thread, in general this will not blend into your quilt. Hand quilting is an art and you want it to shine.SHOW IT OFF.

I usually go for contrast but if on your first quilt you are hesitant to let your stitches show match your thread to the fabric you plan to use on the back of your quilt. The worst of your work will be back there.

Again fabric for the backing and binding. If you’re having trouble with calculations email.

And if you are ok with spending a few more dollars get a pack of larger embroidery or crewel needles and some cheap crochet cotton or thicker thread for basting.

Again I’ll go into more detail later. This is a super fast list for anyone who has no alternative other than ordering off the internet or is driving out of their way for materials.

Feel free to leave tips and questions. Remember before you punish me for not mentioning this that or the other that this is a fast list for a few and not detailed notes and discussion for many.

We will recover all of this later on.

Today I’m going to be catching up on emails and comments. We showed our house twice this weekend and I’ve been busy having to pick up my big messes and except for one friend, who I know forgives my horrid quick spelling and nutty rambles, I’ve steered clear of the net.

I am working ahead of what I’m teaching on here so that I can address issues that may come up for everyone.

Again this is really not a quilt along unless you want it to be. I’m only teaching the way I was taught. My first top took four years to finish piecing.

Life happens.

Just remain really open and honest. If you’re just starting and something really simple is tripping you up please leave a comment or email.

If you’re like me, and passion oozes from you with abandon, just let me know you’re way ahead and need some direction.

Later today I’m going to post an Interjection for Buying Everything You Need.

Michael gets paid once a month, and I never have the disposable cash out of any one check to buy everything at once but I realize that if you live far from where you are gathering your materials you may want to know what you need to finish your quilt so that you can go ahead and get all the shopping done at once.

Does anyone need a post on fabric? buying fabric? how much fabric? etc. right now?

Remember if you need help I’m here. I’m happy to skype you through it.

It’s never too late to join in on this. So far all that I’ve really worked on lining up is Materials and Tools to get started hand piecing.

The previous posts that dealt with stitches etc. are up if anyone wants to go ahead but in my mind all I’m focused on is getting you what you need.

I want everyone who has the desire to also have the opportunity.

Today is Template Day and it’s a big one. There’s a lot of choice when it comes to templates and alternatives and I use them all at different times.

Both bought and found Templates

Obviously the best template is the free template. We’re working right now on a Nine Patch and so you can truly make your square out of anything. You just want a square. You can draw it on cardboard, cardstock, or any hard *yet not too hard to cut* material.

If the freehand square scares you or if this is the only material you can come by and you’re seeking greater accuracy

measure your shape onto graph paper first or find an exact square to trace onto the cardboard.

**Keep in mind your seam allowance and decide now if you want your seam to the inside or the outside of your piece**

This will change the overall size of your square. Remember we’re adding 1/4 of an inch

ALL THE WAY AROUND OUR PIECE.

So if you want to include your seam allowance within your piece for a 3 inch square your piece would be 3 1/2 x 3 1/2

and if you did not want your seam allowance included you would measure a 3 x 3 square.

When my mama was little she often used newspaper for creating templates or bits and pieces or catalogs or circulars, often the front of a catalog page which was usually more durable.

But remember while you’re scouring to use your head instead of your heart.

While it sounds super romantic to use newsprint realize there’s a big difference in the strength and thickness of newspaper today vs. the newspaper of long ago.

I’ve found notecards and even some junk mail papers are strong enough to use for a quilt top.

You can also laminate your graph paper with contact paper. My mama did this while we were growing up.

You can also purchase these, semi thick plastic sheets with a variety of shapes, designed to preview fabrics before cutting or to be marked around.

Then there are these

Template plastic sheets.

They are made by a few different manufacturers and some are lined blue and others red and some are completely clear.

Again use what works. Usually for a measured shape, like a square, I’ll use those with lines and for a wild shape I’ll use the clear sheet.

Lastly there are pre made template sets.

These are sometimes even made by regular ol’ joes who are handy with manipulating thick plastic with tools, but for the most part they are sold in the notions sections of quilt stores or online.

Some companies that made these in the 90′s are no longer in business but their sets are still available for use and sale online. Usually they were made for more difficult patterns such as Double Wedding Ring or various Robbing Peter to Pay Paul curving patterns and because of this they aren’t exactly functional for beginning quilters.

Mrs. Houchens used her templates a little bit different than I’m teaching you and that my mama taught me.

Mrs. Houchens would pin her template to her fabric and cut her piece while holding her fabric in place behind it.

Obviously lifting and handling while cutting can lead to some serious

inaccuracy

and you’ll have plenty of that even without trying.

Again if anyone is having difficulty finding, creating, or using my instructions to make your templates send me an email or leave a comment. Remember for right now we’re focused on our first durable, utility quilt a Nine Patch.

This is just a basic introduction into templates and if you need links or a shopping guide let me know.

Keep up the good piecing!

What is the difference between a sharp and a between?

Sharp vs. Between

Round One: In the left of the ring we have a Roxanne’s size 11 sharp on the right we have a Colonial *Big Eye* Quilting between. Although these aren’t the best for comparison because one is a big eye, they still illustrate that although labeled the same size the sharps are much longer.

Round Two: Using only a slight amount of pressure from my fingers I tried intentionally to bend both needles. See how the sharp gave way, with enough pressure I could literally snap this needle in two. See how the between bent slightly yet didn’t crumble.

Round Three: I’ve not a strong enough macro lens on my camera but I can tell you from feel that the sharp is lighter, thinner and yet a tiny touch fatter at the top of the eye. The between is robust, compact, and streamlined for the abuse it’s going to take while being shoved relentlessly through layers of fabric.

Weavinfool posted a question about thread issues. Hers is knotting. Please do not take this as insulting but I am going to clarify that you are piecing and not quilting(?) and that firstly your thread is not old and not all purpose(?) I’ve actually used some all purpose threads for whip stitching binding and I can tell you that all purpose will knot quicker and worse than a hand quilting thread. Now that we’ve ruled out those two issues I’m going to try a thread test.

I loaded up various betweens, differing sizes because of the various weights of the threads, and began piecing with each one in an attempt to get at least one to knot.

These are the various threads that I tried. Obviously not every thread on the market and not all purpose. One is an old thread, note the small wooden spool, then we have Gutermann, YLI, Mettler and old Coats and Clark hand quilting. I tried to see if I could get them to knot so that I could show a photo with a knot and how you might be able to work it out if it’s an issue of twisting your needle.

This was my thread test block. The closest I got to knotting was with the coarser threads….YLI, Guttermann and the really old thread. I didn’t get a sufficient enough knot to show, but will work on it.

And that I thought about this which is one of my more common thread problems…not knotting perse but a ply of the thread breaking and bunching. If this happens and happens repeatedly I just throw the spool out.

I guess now my questions for anyone with a thread issue is when and where is it knotting? When you first start piecing? After you’ve pieced for a little bit? What kind of thread are you using?Although this sounds strange what does the knot look like? The kind that stem from twisting the needle can sometimes be unworked. If you find that you are twisting the needle and struggling to reteach your hands don’t feel badly about every so often lifting your pieced work and letting your thread and needle dangle (watch that the needle doesn’t come out) doing this will let the twist you’ve given your thread work itself out if it’s there.

I posted a video on flickr of just me doing a few running stitches in slow motion. In case it is a hand placement issues. If anyone is still struggling please let me know what I can do to help and if you’d like a thread sampler I’m happy to cut off some from my spools to let you test some out. Knots happen but not enough to cause a piecer to really notice it unless there is a problem.

I also have a trick for later to keep your floss from tangling as you separate strands. There are lots of little tricks. I just want to make sure I’m giving attention to the area that I need to be.

I was going to throw in Paper Piecing vs. Template Piecing tonight but it got late and I’ve lost so much of my light for photos and I’m nervous about doing the topic an injustice. Will post another interjection tomorrow covering this and then we’ll be on to templates.

Again if anyone has any questions or confusion don’t hesitate to ask anything. I know this week is going fast, but I don’t want to leave what I consider the beginning chapter undone. I want everyone actually sewing in some capacity and not thinking of shopping. Don’t forget you can also email privately.

I really want everyone doing this to enjoy it and have fun at it and I promise that there is a way to do both. Anything so upsetting it stops your sewing is worth a discussion in my book.

I know that many are already finishing blocks or finishing blocks that you started awhile ago (Chawne’s tearing through some great looking ones featuring shot cottons and fabulous coloring). I’ve got a few more troubleshooting tips for right before or when you start connecting blocks so I’m going to keep with the breakneck pace and tonight we’re highlighting

Scissors, Seam Markers and Things that Make Marks.

*Remember this isn’t going anywhere. You can spend three hours here and I’ll never know. Feel free to return, reread and ask questions or leave comments on posts that aren’t new. You can also email.*

We’ve determined that needles are the most important tool, thread is the most personal, and now we’re into the less important but still often necessary scissors.

Scissors often necessary?  you ask. Wouldn’t they be an always?

Why yes sugars, in a pinch you can rip that fabric and use either your teeth or the cutter on some dental floss for thread. You can also use knives, toenail clippers and fire, though I wouldn’t recommend the later, that unpredictable flame can send your piecing up like a roman candle.

Ask me how I know? It’s not pretty but in a pinch when ya gotta piece, ya gotta piece. Even if that means you’re knee deep in a Mexican border town, stuck in a yellow cinder block house with no plumping, Pepe, his goats, and a dog that only responds to a language you don’t know. Sometimes you’ve got to create for the sake of your sanity and in these cases you’ve gotta get creative.

I digress. Scissors.

I started out with Fiskars, bought by my mama, for me, when I was a young lass. I used those up until one day, 10 years later, sewing at her house, she grabs them unknowingly and uses them to open some sticky plastic. Yeah that sticky, gummy stuff never came off, and you’d have thought the woman who lectured me for years on the proper treatment of sewing scissors would have known better. Alas I moved immediately to my Ginghers. Slick, silver, they”ll knock a man cold, or at least that’s what it feels like when I pick them up. You could get your meals free if you carried these bad boys in your pocketbook.  They’re old fashioned, shiny, and heavy as all get out. They’ll last forever. I used those for a good while until….

A year later, I was suffering from what I can only term debilitating bruise like pain in the tops of my hands, both because out of sheer (hahaha shear) pain I’d taught myself to use both hands for cutting. Thankfully, Gingher developed the Featherweight scissor, which has been my mainstay since, unless I’m hitting up denim or a large number of layers.

The tiny, gingher scissors are for embroidery but I use them for piecing, piecing on the go and actually quilting.

I also know there are a few people crossing over from garments and want to stress that pinking shears, those pictured up top, aren’t great for cutting pieces. They tend to cut into the seam allowance a little too much.

WOW! You sound just like all those bloggers who tell a reader to pay 100 dollars for materials. Nope. I’m here to tell you that although they are fabulous scissors I’m not a better quilter for owning them, and  you won’t be either.

All you need is a decent, clean pair of scissors that can cut fabric without going haywire.

and

Most quilters will never cross use their sewing scissors. Those marked for fabric cut fabric and those utility scissors used for plastic cut plastic. The two don’t mix.

Period. The End. Finished.

What’s a seam marker?

Well I thought I had this one figured out too. Turns out it’s got a lot of labeling attached for such a little stick and it’s not just refered to as a seam marker anymore. Some brands call it add a quarter, others call it a quarter inch such and such, some just call it a seam guide…, and still more labels and identities prevail.

My opinion is that if you’re paying over five dollars for this baby you’re paying too much. It’s just a 1/4 inch of plastic. Alternatives exist and you can always cut your own from cardboard. Make a mark on a clear ruler that runs the length, stick two pieces of 1/4 inch tape back to back (just not ever on the fabric, we’re a goo free zone)

Dru asked about using this baby

I’ve always termed this a guage, but if you’re deligent and just trying to figure out if you want to sew by hand  feel free to set the guage and slowly go around the piece making small marks

Remember if you want to go truly old school you wouldn’t be marking these at all, but be prepared if this is your first few blocks by hand for some wildness to ensue.  The point is just to mark 1/4 inch seam allowance, don’t make it harder than it has to be and feel free to get creative. If you’re crossing over from machine work you’ll recognize what we’re doing is using the handwork version of this

Now it’s time to talk about those things that make marks.

I use and prefer a fine point, cheap black, roller ball ink pen for marking seams. I use a super light touch. This keeps my line from being so large it distorts its finished size and keeps me from going nuts and ripping, tearing or butchering my actual fabric.

Above you’ll see a pencil mark, marked heavy and quick.

And here’s what a light fine point pen mark will get you.

I prefer the later. Remember to keep it light and gentle whatever route you go, and keep in mind we’re talking about marking for piecing and not quilting. For darker fabrics I use either a Dritz chalk wheel or these.  

Have we covered it all?

Probably not. I’m sure I’ve left something out or left a product unfeatured. Feel free to shout out if something seems amiss. Again these posts aren’t really intended to be product reviews, they’re meant to be guides to getting hand quilters started in a strong, enjoyable way that will keep them returning to the craft.

Tomorrow we’ll have an interjection about template vs. paper piecing brought up via question by Samantha and then another talking about thread issues brought up by  weavinfool. 

And then the day after we’ll cover templates again as well as alternatives.

These questions, any questions, make everyone stronger, more intelligent creators.

Ask! Ask! Ask! They teach even the most experienced quilter to ask why and to be more thoughtful about how they instruct others and how they make their work, as well as answer for others the questions they were going to ask.

Stitch away! and have a great day tomorrow!

I make a note of this because it’s easy to spend a lot of money fast ordering what you might think will be the perfect thread, only to discover it isn’t. Since the whole goal is to quilt on the cheap, well I just want to ensure that you try a thread before you order a lot.

Thread, like textiles, are imported, cross imported and manufactured in such a variety of locations that you really have to watch and pay attention to what you’re buying and from where, not to mention the fact that stores that see a low volume of traffic will often only be carrying really old thread, which can break, knot and tangle much easier than newer spools.

(Arlee gave me an excellent tip a few years ago to store my thread in the freezer to keep it from aging as quickly)

Like fabric, threads can also just be poorly made, sometimes machines go array and while the brand may be fabulous the individual spool might be a lemon.

If you’re curious of what weight or ply of thread to use the best bet is to visit the manufacturers website for more detailed information.

Thread weights and ply numbers, although easy to find online, are almost never readily advertised in stores. They are usually labeled by manufacturer, then machine or hand quilting, and then broken down into sections such as invisible, metallic, and variegated.

My mama grew up using Coats and Clark handquilting thread. A few years ago they changed how they manufactured their handquilting thread in an attempt to both save money and appeal to a wider audience who thirsted after new, more vibrant colors. They also changed the spool that the thread came on.

On the left is the older thread on the right is the newer version of the same thread

 I still use it, both kinds, because although the older kind was better, Coats and Clark is still the most readily available thread and around here the cheapest. I’ve found Coats and Clark easily in other countries too. In some areas the thread on the left is still available and so I wanted to post both in case you went looking.

For hand piecing, which is what we’re focusing on now I still recommend Coats and Clark handquilting thread. You can buy it in either 100% cotton or cotton/polyester, but again make note that materials are personal and what works for me may not work for you. Again watch what thread you buy if you’re using the small number 12 between to ensure your thread fits through the eye of the needle.

When handpiecing a traditional quilt, made of cotton or poly/cotton fabric, do not use anything other than cotton or cotton/polyester thread.

I do not intend this to be a review of threads, because I honestly haven’t sought out and tried every hand piecing/hand quilting thread on the market. I’ll tell you what I use to determine a thread I like, obviously the thread I like and find easy to locate, as well as a write up of what I’ve tried and what I haven’t.

Mrs. Houchens, nor my mama, ever coated their thread in anything! In my opinion if I have to slather goo on a product to get it to work it’s not a very well made product. I’m also a little disturbed by this

And will say that if it’s not safe for my small kids it’s not safe for my quilts.

Mrs. Houchens guide to finding thread was

Find a good, strong thread that you cannot break easily by hand and that doesn’t rip your fabric.

Should also match the fiber content of your fabric pretty closely.

Threads I’ve personally tried to hand piece

Again this is not a comprehensive review and it is simply my opinion on these threads to hand PIECE. I’ll discuss thread again when we get to quilting.

I found YLI to be bulky, something I don’t really desire for my tops, but perhaps you might and I found Gutermann to knot, a lot.

In a pinch I’ll use one strand DMC floss, but doing this for an entire large top would become tedious. I’ve also used old thread on wooden spools on old tops, but don’t recommend mixing this with new fabric unless you have to. My reasoning being that fiber does age and that the thread is what is holding your quilt together. We want your first quilt to last as long as possible. Your thread will rot before your fabrics will.

Again I note that grey is the color to go after if you don’t want your handpiecing stitches to show, which they probably will in some places on your first top and that you can also match the colors of thread to the colors of fabric for piecing too. If grey thread is unavailable go to off white. If you don’t care what color shows or you think a particular color is special to you then by all means shake it up. Just make sure it’s strong, durable and something you can live with using for awhile.

Again this week we’re reviewing materials, and again this is one person’s opinion. I welcome others. I hope everyone is hanging in there. A big high five to those of you handpiecing anything. If you hit up on trouble, even if I’ve not covered it here, I’m more than happy to post an interjection on whatever is ailing, concerning, or leading you to have questions, even if it’s a little ahead of us.

If you’d like to be highlighted or linked to on the blog just send an email. I’m happy to include you. Please don’t take belated replies to comments or emails as an affront.

Michael is in the middle of a good sizable amount of dental work for the next few months and it’s causing both our schedules to be a little off. Thanks everyone for visiting. Keep up the mega fabulous work!

ED Update: Since posting this I’ve found a spool of Mettler 50wt/3ply 100% cotton silk finish thread. A friend sent me this a few years ago when we were debating quality threads on my old blog.  Although not easily available at any of my local craft shops, our local quilt shop is two towns over about 45 minutes from here, this thread is actually pretty good. I’ve used it piecing for the last couple of hours and although softer and thinner than the Coats and Clark it’s yet to knot on me or break.

I’ll keep updating as I try different threads and will make a point to try new things for review here.

Your needle. Think of it a little like your own personal magic wand. You can even pretend there’s a phoenix feather in there if it helps. Hear the trumpets sound when you pick it up, and now lets get moving.

It’s special, it’s magical, you and it are going to become one, though really don’t because you’ll have to go to the hospital for that.

Although there is slight variation from one manufacturer to the next, the universal truth is that the larger the number the smaller the needle. This one holds across the board. Each needle can be made a little different, out of slightly different metals and alloys and all that jazz.

I’m going to strongly encourage that if you’re doing this on the cheap you only buy a Number 12 Between or as John James labels them Number 12 Quilting. Why?you might ask.

Because if you’re doing this on the cheap you’re probably not going to have tons of money. This is going to be the same needle we use for hand quilting later on getting acquainted with it now will only help you later. I note here that in a pinch you really can quilt with any needle, though your technique and performance might be a bit different, you’ll still get the job done.

Machine vs. Hand Needle : A Diagram of Parts

There are many different kinds of needles, even within the hand sewing realm.

Some people use sharps for piecing, but I don’t.

For most people sharps and betweens are the only two kinds of needles for traditional patchwork and hand quilting.

There are also a great many number of brands and many sizes within each brand.

Each pack contains many needles of the same size from that brand. Unless you get a sampler pack or assortment.

This is a vintage pack of various sizes of needles from the same brand.

The only needle I’m ever really going to tell you not to use is a Big Eye needle from any brand.

The big eye, although easy to thread, snags fabric while piecing and is near impossible to push through the layers well while quilting. It will slow you down and potential make you hate the craft.

If you cannot see to thread your needle I suggest a Clover Desk Needle Threader.

My mama’s eyes are going and this is the only needle threader that she’s had continued, repeated success with, again I’m not affiliated with the company and you don’t have to buy it.

You’re going to want your needle before you go shopping for fabric.

This is my Traveling Needle Case.

I know, I know, they sell a magnetized one with a lid, but remember we’re going on the cheap.

We’ve gotta make our own.

This is a needle attached to a piece of thread, attached to a button, loaded onto a piece of fabric or paper and you’ll carry it with you to test how fabrics needle by hand. Make sure that needle tip is tucked down into the fabric.

The button thing is all me. It’s to weigh the needle down in my pocket so I do lose it amongst a Thomas the Train, three plastic animals and my debit card (what’s currently in my coat pocket)  and it makes it easier and faster to find. Hiding it in the fabric keeps it from piercing mine or the kids fingers. You can make your own!

Why not just carry it in the pack you ask?

Because with small kids it’s easy to be trying to needle something and suddenly have to play mama. I’ve dropped them, lost them, and gotten them stuck in a bolt. I hate this. Floating unprotected needles are dangerous to the young, old and everyone in between.

So for today we’ve learned

Needles are a tool. They’re personal. I recommend one kind because we’re preparing to eventually quilt by hand and this is what I was taught with. It’s still what my mama uses today too.

I highlighted a couple of brands via photos, explained different sizes and that there are variations. Some needles even come with other sized needles.

I explained that you really can use any needle if you have too.You’ll just change your form and it probably will change your stitches a little.

I said that big eyed needles are bad and that if you can’t see pick up a needle threader.

I also explained how to make a traveling needle case fast, so that, if you’ve never been around fabric you’ll not risk buying a print that needles by hand poorly.

((The majority of quilters today work by machine and because of this they are stocked with fabrics and tools that cater to machine quilters.

Nothing wrong here, but I don’t want to leave the beginners flying blind into a fabric store and picking out a batik.))

I think/hope I’ve got it all. Feel free to throw in your opinion and tomorrow we’ll breakdown and highlight thread.

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